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1919a4 FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
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Questions and Answers have been submitted by 1919a4.com discussion forum members. Thanks to Todd of Rapid Fire for answering some of the answers.
- How can I set the headspacing in the field, so to speak?
- Are the .30-06 and .308 boosters interchangeable?
- What do I need to swap calibers from .308 to 30-06?
- How do I field strip the 1919a4?
- What is the difference between the U.S. bipod and the Israeli bipod?
- Can the 1919a4 trigger pull weight be adjusted?
- What tripod is the most comfortable to use from a sitting position, M2, Bren or MA58?
- My DLO 1919 won't run links, but does fine with belts. What gives?
- How do you clean cloth ammo belts?
- How many rounds of linked .308 or .30-06 will fit in a US GI .30 Cal ammo can?
- How do I install spade grips on my 1919a4?
- Should I use the lid of the ammo can to help feed the ammo when shooting?
- Do I need to help feed the ammo when shooting the M1919?
- What is the weight of the individual components, bipod, buttstock, carry handle and the gun itself?
- How do I clear a jam in the gun?
- Does the flash hider work?
- What things must the home-builder make sure to do to comply with the GCA '68 and CrimeBill '94?
- What features/mods are necessary to make a semi-auto that is approved by ATF?
- Can a home-built 1919a4 ever be sold?
- How many home-built guns can one make in any given time period?
- Does there need to be name, serial number, date of mfgr, and place of mfgr if I build my own?
- Is welding the receiver necessary for the home builder?
- Can I own a semi-auto with a full-auto parts kit to be used as spare parts? Or do all parts kits owned have to be modified immediately upon
owning them?
- Are new steel links regulated the same way as high capacity magazines?
- The FM from 1955 says that I need to adjust the headspace with the guts inside the gun even if it has been set outside the reciever. Is setting the headspace outside the gun sufficient? How often is it neccessary to set headspace?
- Are 80% plates thick enough to build a semi 1919? What is required to finish the plates? Are rivets necessary, or can it be welded? Are rivets set by heating until red? Any recipies for parkerizing?
- Which bolt do you use with an 8mm set-up?
- Any tips on seating the rivets?
- How can I set the headspacing in the field, so to speak?
Method one: Put the whole thing together with the barrel screwed all the way into the barrel extension. Make sure there is no ammunition in the feed mechanism. Close the action as far as it will go. The whole thing should bind up before the breech locking block locks the whole thing into battery. Remove the muzzle booster. Unscrew the barrel one click at a time until the action clunks into full battery. You can't miss the moment. Unscrew two more clicks. Replace muzzle booster. Attempt to chamber a cartridge. If the gun locks up fully, it is ready to test fire. If it does not go into battery, UNLOAD THE GUN, remove the muzzle booster and unscrew the barrel two more clicks, reassemble and see if it goes into battery with the cartridge.
Test fire gun... If it runs sluggishly, repeat the above procedure and unscrew the barrel another click. If it runs well, fire five rounds and examine the cases carefully. If there is any sign of case splitting or head separation, repeat the above procedure, but screw the barrel in a notch or two. Have a broken case extractor on hand just in case the first case separates and leaves the chamber blocked. NEVER FIRE THE GUN WITHOUT THE MUZZLE BOOSTER INSTALLED.
Method two: Take an unfired cartridge from the lot you are shooting. Pull the bullet. Squirt the inside of the case with CLP or other penetrating oil to deaden the primer. Assemble gun, load deadened trial case into the chamber, remove muzzle booster, screw barrel in or out to the point that the gun is locked into battery, but screwed as tightly down on the cartridge as you can. Back off one or two clicks depending upon how hot you want to get the gun or how consistently headspaced your ammo is. I use two clicks and have no trouble with heat expansion or case separations, however, I use quality ammo.
This answer comes from Mike Hawker. Mike says "These methods are a discussion of my experiences, anyone using them as a guide for operating their own firearm, does so at their own risk and considerable peril. Actual technical instructions are available in US GI field manuals."
- Are the .30-06 and .308 boosters interchangeable?
No.
- What do I need to swap calibers from .308 to 30-06?
Change the barrel, replace the .308 booster with .30-06 booster, remove the trunnion spacer and headspace the rifle. Also, remove the left rear cartridge spacer and check to see that the right front stop positions the bullet so the cartridge is parallel with the chamber as seen from above.
- How do I field strip the 1919a4?
See our Field Stripping Guide for complete details with pictures.
- What is the difference between the U.S. bipod and the Israeli bipod?
The U.S. bipod is actually part of the barrel shroud.
- Can the 1919a4 trigger pull weight be adjusted?
On Rapid Fire 1919s, yes, using a reduced power trigger return spring (but be careful--too much and it won't return).
- What tripod is the most comfortable to use from a sitting position, M2, Bren or MA58?
The M2 must be used from the prone position, while the Bren can be used comfortably from the sitting, crossed legged, or kneeling position.
- My DLO 1919 won't run links, but does fine with belts. What gives?
A lot of DLO 1919s were made to only run belts. The way to tell if it's a DLO "belt-only" gun is that the right hand feed stop will have a U-shaped step on it. On those made for links, the stops will be sraight across the bottom of the stop. Additionally, the top cover on the DLOs will have an upside down U where the bolt goes through the top cover on the top if it's a "link" gun. A "belt-only" gun will not have the upside down U. The feed lever pawl for links will have a squiggle in it, with the tab hanging down off the feed pawl; the belt gun will be straight. If you change the top cover and the feed stop, it will be able to run links.
- How do you clean cloth ammo belts?
"I know fabric wasn't designed to last forever, but you can do a couple simple things to add many years to the useable life span of canvas cloth belts. If you try and "launder" the canvas belts, you'll only be breaking down the fibers rather quickly, and any 'tigtening' effect you observe will be short lived.
The best way to treat the canvas belts you intend to use in a gun, is to soak them in ATF. Allow the fluid to thoroughly penetrate the fibers, then wring them dry with a roller-wringer. Anything resembling DEXRON-II ATF, will work great. The ATF is specific, not just any light petroleum lubricant will do, as it contains hygrosopic additives which will REMOVE any moisture and keep it out, totally preventing any dry-rot, or any other moisture dependant fabric degeneration. The belt will naturally "tighten," and yet will be easy to load through the Model 1918 belt-filling machine as it will retain a free lubricity for..........years. This also will help belt pull and feed as it passes through the trunion. The cartridge loops will NOT take a "set" once treated, eliminating any worries of 'too tight', or 'too loose' holding of cartridges. It is best to start with a belt that is slightly used, ran once or twice through a belt filler, then make sure you use the tightest wringer-roller you can find, you will need to keep wringing until the fabric come out feeling almost dry, but thoroughly pink in color. You can do this even to an old, tired belt and gain years of service."
"This really is one of those little tricks that is amazingly simple, yet really works. You'll have to get used to the pink belts, though once you do, it looks kinda nifty!"
- How many rounds of linked .308 or .30-06 will fit in a US GI .30 Cal ammo can?
Approximately 220 rounds of linked .308 ammo will fit comfortably in a .30 Cal ammo can, give or take a few rounds.
- How do I install spade grips on my 1919a4?
First, make sure the gun is unloaded. Then, pull the pin to free that roller on the spade grips. Next, on your gun, pull the bolt back and hold it, and with a screwdriver, turn the mainspring guide 90 degrees clockwise and it will capture and hold the mainspring. Push the bolt forward about an inch, then open the top cover. Again, push the top cover release forward, hold it there then lift the grip up and off. Slide that spade down in it's place (it may be tight but it should go all the way down). Release the latch, pull the bolt back, release the guide by turning it counter-clockwise 90 degrees and let it the bolt close. Now put the roller and pin back together under the trigger and test it out to see that it will fire the gun. Cock the gun and push the butterfly forward, it should release the firing pin. If it does not, you'll need a larger roller or you'll have to adjust your trigger.
- Should I use the lid of the ammo can to help feed the ammo when shooting?
That's a good idea; couldn't hurt.
- Do I need to help feed the ammo when shooting the M1919?
You can shoot 25 round belts without some help; more than that have someone feed.
- What is the weight of the individual components, bipod, buttstock, carry handle and the gun itself?
The gun itself: 40 pounds, bipod: 10 pounds, buttstock: 3 pounds, carry handle: 1 pound.
- How do I clear a jam in the gun?
Open the top cover, see where the jam is; if it's in the chamber, count to about 15 just to make sure it is not the ammo, pull the bolt back, clear, inspect and start firing again.
- Does the flash hider work?
Yes.
- What things must the home-builder make sure to do to comply with the
GCA '68 and CrimeBill '94?
Everything a manufacturer does, a home-builder must do.
- What features/mods are necessary to make a semi-auto that is approved
by ATF?
The receiver must be "permanently attached to the trunion, bottom plate and top plate by means of deep penetrating, full fusion, gas or electric steel seam welds" when finished. A new right side plate needs to be created that is approximately .065
inches thicker than a normal 1919 machinegun side plate. This is to ensure that the finished product can not be easily converted to full auto.
See blueprints and images here. For additional information, see the ATF Approval Letter that American Arms received.
- Can a home-built 1919a4 ever be sold?
Yes, but any profit must be declared on taxes.
- How many home-built guns can one make in any given time period?
One per year for a semi auto.
- Does there need to be name, serial number, date of mfgr, and place of
mfgr if I build my own?
Yes.
- Is welding the receiver necessary for the home builder?
Yes. See the above question for additional details.
- Can I own a semi-auto with a full-auto parts kit to be used as spare
parts? Or do all parts kits owned have to be modified immediately upon
owning them?
There are a limited number of parts from a full auto parts kit that would be usable in a semi automatic 1919a4. While it may not be illegal for you to possess a parts kit and a semi auto 1919, it would probably appear to be more reasonable (in the eyes of the BATF) to only possess semi auto parts and parts that work in both firearms.
- Are new steel links regulated the same way as high capacity magazines?
When more than 10 are linked, yes.
- The FM from 1955 says that I need to adjust the headspace with the guts inside the gun even if it has been set outside the reciever. Is setting the headspace outside the gun sufficient? How often is it neccessary to set headspace?
Just pull the "guts" in and out of gun when setting the headspace. I would at least check it everytime it is taken apart, or at each sitting.
- Are 80% plates thick enough to build a semi 1919? What is required to finish the plates? Are rivets necessary, or can it be welded? Are rivets set by heating until red? Any recipies for parkerizing?
80% receivers can be used, though a 1/4 inch thick plate is recommended. You do not have to rivet, you could weld it all together. Rivets we do we do with a rivet attachment on a puematic hammer. We use magnesium phosphate for parkerizing; 10% mix 180 degrees.
- Which bolt do you use with an 8mm set-up?
Either one, 30.06 or .308.
- Any tips on seating the rivets?
Make a mandrel that will fit inside the box, filling left to right, from rear opening to ejection hole, and about 1-1/2" tall. Make it from tool steel. Fit in the rivets, and then c-clamp this item into the box, two clamps: one rear, one front. This mandrel will back up the internally countersunk lower rivets.
Make a similar mandrel for the upper rear rivet. The mandrel needs to have a clearance slot for the rivet on the left side. Note that the rear right upper rivet needs to have 1/2 of the head ground off. This is a button-head rivet, so the mandrel rightly needs to have a hemispherical hole milled into it with a ball-nose endmill.
Most rivets will need some of the countersink head cut away, using a lathe, to provide more shank length, and less head length.
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