Tripod Leather Tool Case?

[Craig Johnson]

I think you are correct on the early combination wrench. I passed on one a few years ago not realizing how hard they are to find. At least for me anyways.



The M6 is too long
The M8 is listed as an elevating mechanism
The M5 is listed as combination wrench , does not perform allot of functions,
and I dont think it was manufactured that early.


M5 upper left, M8 upper right, M6 lower.


Craig

[JMB 1855-1926]

Originally Posted by Armorer

The post by Craig Johnson indicated that the pouch was supposed to contain: Clearing Plug, Combination Tool, Small Oil Can, 5 inch pliers, Cleaning Patches and Absbestos Packing. This was quoted from Training Regulation 320-35 March 25, 1925.

Surpizingly it says nothing about a broken shell extractor, spare parts or cleaning rod. I don't think the Army was issuing a cleaning rod that would have fit in the case untill the short section M10 was adopted in WWII. I don't know if the combination tool mentioned was for the tripod or the gun.

The clearing plug is another term for a broken shell extractor.

[barrelxchange]

I have a spare I will part with, 1 buckle on the front has pulled through the leather but it can be repaired (I have the buckle) $40

[gulf state gaurd]

Early style clearing plugs/broken shell extractors were shaped like a cartridge that was placed into the bolt like single loading a shell by hand and gently pushed forward into the chamber being careful not to score the chamber.

The earlier MG cleaning rods were one peice. I saw Hayes Otoupalik over a year ago selling a brass one he said was real early. He also is stocking a steel one peice. I would assume these would go into the Spare barrel cover with the spare barrels for the gun.

The trick to corner stitching is done 2 ways. One is to have the very rare saddle stitching machine to do it. Haven't been made in about 50 years and probably cost as much as a really good metal lathe or more. They are about as common today as an original 1917 BMG parts kit. The other way is to hand stitch it so most leather workers will not even consider it b/c they do not want to be bothered. It is not a big deal once you know what you are up to. Need a spacing wheel to mark your holes, a correct sized punch and a hand awl. 2 saddle stitch needles (with spares b/c you do break the eyes out occassionally), a block of bees wax to keep the thread lubed regular or you'll wear the thread while sewing. and your ready to go. Nice you have some leather adhesive as well. Paint both peices to be joined, let air dry a few moment then join. Also keep a set of needle nose near by or surgical clamps to help pull the needles through the hole when you meet resistance.

When you have marked your stitch holes on the outer peice the side peices (w/o having one on hand to examine) you have to use the hand awl to punch angle holes through the leather so the exterior is say 1/8 or 3/16 from the edge of the leather but the interior exposed corner of the leather is where the exit holes will be. Hence the need to hand stitch since you will be sewing through the leather on an angle.

Also when you are saddle stitching you have a leather needle on either end of the thread you are using and they both pass through the same hole going in opposite directions. Make sure you have enough thread to make the whole run per side and start at the least easiest to hide your tie point, so when you finish your stitch line you come back 2-3 stitches as a reinforcement and so you can hide your tie-off knot into the seam on the interior. Remember to wax your thread often to avoid unnecessary wear.

I'm simplifying this but these are your basic tools for doing the stitching with.

You might also contact Dell Leather works. Guy makes reproduction Civil War gear and is very reliable and does quality museum grade work. Then it's a matter of deciding whether you want a new made pouch or whether you want him to replace the straps on an original to put it in serviceable condition again.

[JMB 1855-1926]

Tandy Leather Factory