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WTB parts for Stevens Favorite .22 falling block rifle

21K views 49 replies 10 participants last post by  emmagee1917 
#1 ·
Picked this up from a board member. Really interesting rifle that I am looking to restore as a gift for one of the grandsons. Have been scouring the 'net for two tang screws, two buttplate screws, a checkered steel buttplate (curved) and a front sight. Tried Gunparts, Sarco and Dixie. Found a plastic buttplate, but that's it. If you have any parts sources for this rifle, 1915 model, please give me a shout.

Also, looking for someone who does bone case hardening (for the receiver).

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
If you can not find the screws you are looking for try this , If its a bolt that screws into metal then simply match up the thread and measure the length , pick the correct head style and make your own. Always cut just a hair longer than you need and remove a little until its a perfect fit =) I do this with my double barrel shotguns and when i am done you can't tell they are not original.
 
#4 ·
xdevil,
Greetings!
I have the EXACT model that you describe I believe... is it a "take down" model where you can pull the barrel and forearm off of the frame? It was described as a "stevens favorite". The tang is described as "Model 1915".
Anyway, the original forearm was shattered when we got ours. I believe the gunsmith was able to get a NEW forearm from Numrich (in the late 1980's). Anyway, it has a plastic original buttplate.
My Dad bought a Savage marked "Stevens Favorite Model 30" around 2004. It is a "duplicate" of the Model 1915. Plastic buttplate... etc.. however, it does NOT have screws on the tang. The plastic buttplate seems to match, but the screws on the Model 30 are "phillips" whereas the Model 1915 are "flat head". The front site is totally different.

So maybe you can get some parts from the "new" Stevens Favorite Model 30 to fit your Model 1915. Good luck and keep us posted.
PM me with your email, and I can send you photos of the front sight if you need to take a look!
 
#5 ·
xd,
I did a web search and came up with: Wisners

Try: http://www.wisnersinc.com/rifles/stevens/singleshotlever.html

To see what they offer:

STEVENS
FAVORITE-1889 / early 1894
28AB
EXTRACTOR - 22 - side style - (7 o'clock position)
$22.00
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE- 1889 / 1894
10AB
FIRING PIN - (chisel point)
$11.75
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1889
12AB
MAINSPRING - ( no screw hole)
$18.25
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1889 / 1894
36ABC
TANG SCREW, (Upper & Lower)
$4.00
.
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1894- intermediate
13WB EXTRACTOR - 22 RF - center style (.240 wide top, .193 dia. hole) $23.75
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1894- later
14B
EXTRACTOR - 22 - center style - (.200 wide full length, .193 dia. hole)
$20.00 .
STEVENS
FAVORITE- late 1894 & 1915
6-9BC
EXTRACTOR / EJECTOR ASSEMBLY- 22 RF (spring loaded)
$27.50 .
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1894
35BC
FOREARM SCREW $2.75
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1894
12B
MAINSPRING - with screw hole
$19.25
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1894
25B
MAINSPRING SCREW
$2.75
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1894 / 1915
30BC
TRIGGER SPRING $5.50
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1894 / 1915
31BC
TRIGGER SPRING SCREW $2.75
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1915
2C
BREECH BOLT SCREW $4.00
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1915
6-9BC
EXTRACTOR / EJECTOR ASSEMBLY- 22 RF (spring loaded)
$27.50 .
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1915
10C
FIRING PIN - (round point)
$11.75
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1915
16C
TRIGGER SCREW $4.00
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1915
16C
HAMMER SCREW $4.00
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1915
19C
LEVER SCREW $4.00
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1915
27C
TAKE DOWN SCREW
$13.75
.
STEVENS
FAVORITE-1915
36ABC
TANG SCREW, (2 Needed) (Upper & Lower)
$4.00

Note that they have tang screws. Wisners... makes NEW parts for Obsolete guns.

I second checked the Model 1915 and Model 30 and the buttplates ARE DIFFERENT. the Model 30 is curved, but flat on the wood. Whereas the M1915 wood is curved.
 
#6 ·
Original Buttplate

Xd,
Here is a buttplate that is original. Although it is NOT the steel you requested, I checked and it is the EXACT match to what my Model 1915 has:

http://vintagegungrips.net/ao-s36.html



Stevens Favorite Buttplate curved
4 5/32 x 1 7/32

"Mounting screws for our items are not included. However, we have screws for most of our items and, if ordered, we will send the appropriate screws. If we do not have the appropriate screw(s), we will remove the cost from the order; or, if we are not familiar with the proper screws for the item ordered, we will contact you."

Note: Oftentimes, the existing escutcheons have fused to the old grips and cannot be successfully removed to be reused with the new grips. If you can retrieve the escutcheons (nuts) from your old grips and have the screw, you will not need to order these new.

Don't forget to order your screws and/or escutcheons, click here for your choices.

Questions? Please contact us at sales@vintagegungrips.com



ao-S36$16.60
 
#7 ·
I love this place!!

Thanks, Nobody1. I had thrashed around some more this evening and found the tang screws at Wisners Inc., but the buttplate is a real find. I'm headed for the rack now, but will be ordering both tomorrow.

I'm sending my email by PM. If you can send back a couple of pix of the front site on your Favorite, and dimention same with a mic - expecially the distance from the top of the barrel to the top of the site and the diameter of the bead, I will be forever in your debt.
 
#8 ·
Wow! I also have one of the takedown models, old guy down the street gave it to me, he used to part-time gunsmith and bought all sort of "basket case" guns.

It was missing extractor-ejector assm/FP/forearm and complete stock assm, the rest (including bore) was in VG shape. I looked for the missing parts several yrs ago, couldn't find anything, this news sure beats making those parts. Thank you! :D
 
#9 ·
Guys,
My Dad loved his 1915. Big story about him knocking down a squirrel at 75+ yards, back in the '80's. He swore it was the MOST accurate gun he ever owned.
"Mine" is about 60% blue on the barrel. Frame is a dark color (not case hardened color anymore). The forearm is BRAND NEW and the stock is probably 50+%. Some of the varnish is flaking off. I don't know if I want to "restore" the stock, since it still looks good. The forearm is NOT an exact match from original to the "new" one... but if you didn't know what you were looking at....
Anyway, the front sight is a BLADE, not a globe or dot. Looks to be brass.
I have taken photos, and will post them to your account. If you would like, you may post a few to this website for reference, for other gun people! If you need more, let me know!
Black rifle...
Even though the post was specific for what parts XD needed, I felt posting more information MAY help. Getting parts for these old guns can be a chore... but something that is obviously fun to do... if you know where to get them! :)
What I like about Wisners... is that they claim to MAKE the parts, not pull some other old gun apart!
 
#11 ·
Photos and Help

Guys,
I sent XD photos of my 1915 and Stevens/ Savage Model 30. Sounds like he has a different flavor of 1915. Hopefully things will turn out good for him!

BR,
It has to be "brothers helping brothers". I don't want the governments help!:eek:
I would hate to keep a company "secret" only to have it go out of business... and then everyone looses. So any info I find, I try and share!
 
#14 ·
Score one for Rory. The breech block does tilt back as it falls away into the receiver. :eek:

Started the pulldown and degreasing this evening. Now that it's completely disassembled I'm thinking it is either an earlier model than the 1915 or a parts gun. For one thing, the hammer and trigger springs are flat rather than the coil springs on guides that the 1915 is supposed to use. And there is no 1915 designation on the upper tang.

Still looking for someone who does bone charcoal case hardening. Don't really want to buy 25lbs of charcoal, a furnace, etc., just to do one receiver.

Also, anyone have a good technique for polishing the flats on an octagonal barrel without rounding the edge between the flats? I'm thinking progressively finer wet paper on hardwood blocks dipped in cutting oil, but this in new territory for me.
 
#15 ·
Not familiar with this gun is it a copy of the remington 22 rolling block? Could you post some pictures?
 
#19 ·
Now you all are getting me in trouble, I just bought a (very rusty) Model 72 for spare parts, looks like the (72 parts gun) stock/forearm will work on the Model 16. I took the forearm off my old 72 and it goes right on the 16, the stock tang area needs to be inletted (lengthened) slightly. :D
 
#20 ·
Guys,
Luckily my post was lost somehow, talking about this rifle!:)

I have NOT heard of it being referred to as a "tilting" block. However, I have heard of it called: Stevens Favorite, Crackshot, lever action and falling block.

Note, the block does drop and tilt.;)

I have dealt with Dick Williams twice. While they have the parts... twice was enough!:( I have to rank them with poor service... Sorry... JMHOP. I am local to them and both service requests were done over a 10 year period... I would only do cash and carry... with them.

xd,
Sounds like the sanding job may be the ticket. I would dry a metal slab to work on instead of the wood. Never had to "work" on an octagon barrel for restoration.

We should post some pics for everyone... these Stevens Favorites are not rollingblocks. Real good guns! I love both my 1915 and Model 30. Wouldn't trade them...

Don't know of anyone doing the case/ bone hardening... you may have to DIY.
 
#21 ·
Pix. . .

Feel free to post any of the pix I sent, Nobody1. I post pix here about once every two years and forget how in between.

I like the steel plate idea for backing up the sandpaper. I'll give that a try on a scrap of octagon barrel I have lying around the shop and see how it goes.
 
#23 ·
xd,
As soon as I figure how to post... I will upload pics!:D

I figure that steel won't "give" as much as wood would. When sanding I usually to do a good job... and a steel backing makes it nice and firm.

Hacksaw,
There is always "one" with a bad experience (or two).:confused: Other people have praised them... so who am I. This isn't the thread to dis anyone!:D
 
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