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Thread: Need help with trigger problem.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Rockwood MI
    Posts
    78

    Need help with trigger problem.

    I have an Allied Armanent a4 and I replaced the lockframe.The new one that I got from 30clmachinegunner looks nice and came machined but didnt have some extra stuff machined that Allied did to thiers.The triggerspring crossbar is relived on the bottom for the trigger that they use. I tried putting my KMP trigger that Im going to use in the one Im building in it and it needs to be machined under the crosbar too which I heard has been mentioned by KMP before.I also noticed that the Allied trigger is longer than the KMP and that Allied milled a pocket in the berrel extention for clearance of the trigger. I cant tell but it looks liks the KMP fits without needing to be cleared.I need to know If this clearance is normally done on on all builds.
    The other thing that is different is Allied has a block of steel hanging down off of the bottom of thier trigger just in front of the trigger pin and they relieved the lockframe at the bottom front of the crssmember in the midle of the lockframe to clear the corner of the block of steel. It looks to me like the chunck of steel hanging down is ussless and has no function accept for maybe in the process of milling the trigger.It looks like I could just cut the corner off of the block and would be easier than relieving th frame since I dont hve a mill.But I'm afraid too.I figured AA would have done it that way since it would be easier but I dont know. I figured all a4 were held to the same specifications and would have the same triggers.So what do I do if my trigger brakes.I heard AA is out of bussiness. Any help explaining this would be great!Thanks

    Scott

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Floresville, The Republic of Texas
    Posts
    1,086

    Fwiw................................

    None of the following is to be taken as "Gospel", just what I have sort of figured out over the last 10 years or so.

    1. The Allied Armament trigger is of the original TNW format. Possibly still available from them, but probably more than the value of your first born child.

    2. Allied bought these triggers from the folks in Texas that copied the TNW pattern, I think they go by Military Gun Supply.

    3. ALL the TNW and MGS/Allied triggers, operate in a mucho "Variable" area of movement in relationship to the back plate/lockframe as opposed to the more common KMP/Lee Tool/Daves 100 etc. trigger designs. So additional clearance is definitely required(milling of the cross bar and the backplate slot) to allow the triggers to move "Higher" than is usual.

    4. EVERY gun I've seen/built etc. has had the "Relief Cut" done in the rear of the barrel extension for the front of the trigger bar.

    5. It would follow that the lockframe cross pivot member would need to be clearanced as well, since as I stated above the TNW/Allied Triggers are known for the "Wide Variation" in the arc of movement required to release/reset the sear.

    6. The steel "Box" you mention was originally counterbored for a coil type trigger return spring that pushed against the trigger pivot cross member, but I think that was discontinued as the trigger pull was horrendous.

    7. Without casting any disparity upon the TNW/Allied trigger design, they work fine just a PIA to work with, should you ever need/decide to replace the trigger/sear, by all means contact Tom at KMP and get one of his units, all things considered, you'll be light years ahead of the game by doing so.

    HTH

    From the land of the "Texas Cowboy Militia"
    Emory Jones
    "The poor man's Full Auto"
    www.crankfiresystems.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Westfield IN
    Posts
    2,370
    on #4, the barrel extension tang should have a relief cut/angle to keep the front of the trigger from slamming into it when pulled. Not all barrel extensions have a relief cut behind the locking block surface for clearance. I believe the Wiselight, AA and MGS required it as well as the first batch of forged triggers from KMP but is not required on either the earlier of later KMP triggers

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Rockwood MI
    Posts
    78

    Thanks for the input

    So I take it since i'm not using the coil spring I can take the corner off the buttom of the block? Hopefully when I get the money I'll switch over to a KMP trigger, It seems to be what everybody is using.

    Thanks for the info

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    1,533

    trigs

    thanks emory. very nice comment. and yea scott, we'll take care of you when you need us. and thanks to brian, he lets me know when i screw up !! thanks. tomt---KMP
    thats what i thought!

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