Imbel receiver on british kit? - Page 3
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Thread: Imbel receiver on british kit?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    extreme northern AZ


    Only problem with that is that I don't have any gunsmiths around,my nearest is Lloyd and he's an hour and a half away,plus the cost is already going to exceed the value of the rifle, pulling the barrel and reinstalling it can't be cheap.

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  3. #22

    You can always try a Thread Alignment Tool (TAT ) it fits in the bore with a land touching shank and is threaded for the die you need ,so the die cuts in alignment to the bore not the outside of the barrel .

    One source i know of
    They even offer rotary broaches for getting the right Dia. for the threading the muzzle . All without a lathe .

    They work well just a pointer in the use of one make sure there is a gap between the TAT`s threaded section and muzzle as you run the die down .

    There is more than one way to skin anything !!

  4. #23
    Your rifle was assembled by CAI with an IMBEL metric receiver and a Brit kit in the later 90s. It came from Century with a thumbhole stock and original Brit handguard. Somebody must have put an original stock and PG on it.

    These are excellent builds. I have seen but one, and heard of two more, that were not correctly assembled. This, as everyone knows, is highly unusual for Century. However, the fact remains that 99.9% of them headspace correctly, sights are properly aligned, and build is quality.

    There are variations- some cut for inch mags, others metric, but most were metric cut.

    The Maranyl furniture was introduced in 1968. The wood, while nice looking, doesn't hold up to any kind of real use.

    If you pay to add a FH you won't get that money back when you sell it.

    You have an excellent, if not "correct" 308 rifle. If it were mine I'd keep it as-is and shoot the heck out of it. If you want to spend $$$$ on FALs I can put you into an excellent SAR48 HB for $1800 or Armscorp FMAP S/N 0001 for $4000 or the earliest known (1957) Enfield L1A1 w/ all wood furniture for $1700. Or a T48 clone for $1800 or an R1 on Imbel for $1400 or Libyan clone w/ original near-NOS stock for $1800 or.....

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  6. #24
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Northern Nevada
    Quote Originally Posted by 47lincsled View Post
    Only problem with that is that I don't have any gunsmiths around,my nearest is Lloyd and he's an hour and a half away,plus the cost is already going to exceed the value of the rifle, pulling the barrel and reinstalling it can't be cheap.
    Actually, I'm about six hours away now, but I get to southwest Utah regularly. If you want the threading done on a lathe let me know by PM and we can coordinate with trips back and forth. Imagine there is something in your boneyard we can trade for.

    Unless the bore of the flash hider is exceptionally large please don't go the die route. With brakes the typical specification is that the bore of the brake be cut 0.020" in diameter larger than the bore of the barrel. The barrel bore is rarely in the exact center of the barrel, so it is easy to eat up some or all of that 0.010" buffer around the projectile by relying on the outside diameter of the barrel to set the center of your threads.

    Not familiar with Frog's system, but it should work if the discrepancy between center of the bore and center of the overall barrel contour is very minor. Otherwise a lathe is best so you can cut a threaded stub centered on the bore.

  7. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    extreme northern AZ


    Thanks Lloyd, when I get the kit we'll see where things stand, I know the flash hider isn't that important but that skinny barrel hanging out the front really bothers me,it just looks weird!

  8. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    extreme northern AZ

    Wood cleaning

    My wood kit showed up this morning,I'm sure there was at least an extra pound of oil soaked into the wood! Other then the oil load it looked pretty good,standard dings and dent, no cracks that I could see and it came with a butt plate and muzzle brake. I tried to just start sanding but the paper clogged almost immediately, since it's a little cold right now the wood stove was going,so I borrowed one of my wife's cake cooling grates and put it on top of the wood stove,I love the smell of hot cosmoline, as soon as it started dripping I pulled it off and wiped it down with a paper towel,then I would set it aside to cool was it was cool enough to handle I would turn it over and put it back on the stove,after about an hour of this I figured there had to be another way,a couple of articles I read online suggested "Murphy's oil soap"as long as you aren't worried about the original finish, so a quick trip to the hardware store for that and some green scrubby pads,I heated the pieces up again wiped the down with a dry paper towel the a wet paper towel with Murphy's,the paper towel come out black,sucked that stuff right out,a couple more rotations and everything stopped oozing,the sand paper worked a lot better now.
    The wood came up a lot lighter with all the crap off it,but the dings were still really dark so I got out my one inch soldering iron, a friend suggested using q tips with the iron,I soaked them in water then moved them back and forth along the dings,it not only help lift the wood but cleaned them out so they aren't so obvious.
    With everything cleaned and sanded I had to get them all the same color,I have been using Fiebings leather dye for my reproduction holsters and found that it works great on wood, the pistol grip in this kit was a different type of wood,so it took a few more coats to get it to match,but after 4-5 hours of work the wood is ready to install.
    I now have to decide what I am going to do with the receiver pieces,the lower is that nasty black paint,but the upper being Imbel is a light grey finish,if they were both the same I wouldn't care,either would look good,but being different really bothers me, when the buttstock tool arrives I'm going to try a little Birchwood casey cold blue and see if I can darken to the upper receiver, I found out that black paint is a real pain to remove if you don't have a blast cabinet.

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